Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces
Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds gather.
It is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've seen individuals hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He's pulled together a loose collective of growers who make wine from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Across the Globe
So far, the grower's allotment is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which features more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of the French capital's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards assist cities stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. They preserve land from construction by establishing permanent, yielding farming plots within cities," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a product of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, community, environment and history of a city," notes the president.
Unknown Eastern European Variety
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he says, as he removes damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."
Collective Efforts Across Bristol
Additional participants of the group are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from about fifty plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes slung over her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they keep cultivating from the soil."
Terraced Gardens and Traditional Production
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty vines situated on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of vines arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a serving in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually make quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite on trend, but really it's resurrecting an old way of making wine."
"When I tread the fruit, the various wild yeasts are released from the skins into the juice," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently add a lab-grown culture."
Difficult Environments and Inventive Approaches
A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his companions to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on regular visits to Europe. However it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a fence on